If using barberries: Put the sugar and a scant 3 tablespoons water in a small saucepan and heat until the sugar dissolves. Remove from the heat, add the barberries, and set aside to soak. If using currants or raisins, you do not need to do this step.

Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large sauté pan or Dutch oven for which you have a lid over medium heat. Add the onion, season with salt, and cook for 15 to 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the onion has turned a deep golden brown. It's ok if some onions stick to the pan, just scrape them up with a flat spatula and keep cooking. When done, transfer the onion to a bowl and wipe the pan clean.

While the onions are cooking, place the chicken in a large bowl and season with 1½ teaspoons each salt and black pepper. Add the remaining olive oil, cardamom, cloves and cinnamon and mix everything together. After the onions are done, heat the pan again and place the chicken and spices in it. Sear chicken for 4-5 minutes over medium heat on each side, until browned, and remove from the pan (this will part-cook the chicken). The spices can stay in the pan, but don’t worry if they stick to the chicken. Remove most of the remaining oil, leaving just a thin film at the bottom. Add rice, caramelized onion, 1 teaspoon salt and plenty of black pepper. Drain the barberries and add them (or the currants or raisins). Mix everything together well and place the seared chicken back into the pan, pushing it into the rice.

Pour the boiling water over the rice and chicken and bring to a boil. Once boiling, cover the pan, and cook over very low heat for 30 minutes. Take the pan off the heat, remove the lid, quickly place a clean tea towel over the pan, and cover again with the lid. Leave the dish undisturbed for another 10 minutes (this will finish steaming and cooking the rice). Finally, add the herbs and use a fork to stir them in and fluff up the rice. Taste and add more salt and pepper if needed. Serve hot or warm with yogurt mixture if you like.