zucchini – trial by fryer /~/jmott/trialbyfryer weeknight dinners, and other culinary adventures Mon, 11 Jun 2018 18:28:43 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=5.7 Fried Zucchini and Pasta Salad /~jmott/trialbyfryer/2018/06/fried-zucchini-and-pasta-salad/ /~jmott/trialbyfryer/2018/06/fried-zucchini-and-pasta-salad/#respond Sun, 10 Jun 2018 22:35:37 +0000 /~jmott/trialbyfryer/?p=560 Read more]]>

On Friday, June 8, 2018, America was again rocked by the apparent suicide of Anthony Bourdain, following so close on the heels of Kate Spade’s death. It seems inappropriate to let this moment pass without comment, but I must admit, I don’t actually know that much about Anthony Bourdain. I’ve seen a couple of episodes of his show “No Reservations,” but I’ve never read his books and I didn’t follow his new show “Parts Unknown.” But, I did know undoubtedly of him. Friends who were similarly obsessed with good food and travel referenced him constantly, especially when discussing new foods and new restaurants in new places. I always nodded along, telling myself that when I got back home, I’d watch the episode they mentioned, I’d read his original “Kitchen Confidential” book, I’d get to know this man who, for all intents and purposes, seemed to embody the same open-hearted, adventurous, curious attitude I strive for toward food, travel, and life.

And so, it was with regret that I processed the news about his death – regret that I didn’t get to know this man before he passed (as much as you can know someone by reading their books and watching them on television), regret that I’ll no longer be able to follow along on his journey in real time, only looking backward with a retrospective lens. I’m clearly not the only person who feels this way, as sales of his books have skyrocketed on Amazon after his death. This development isn’t necessarily that surprising, but I like to think that Mr. Bourdain would find it a little amusing, a little sad, and a little hopeful – that his untimely death, as heartbreaking as it was, may yet still lead to fuller lives for so many more people, may lead people to discover him, to know him, and maybe finally to do what he has always advocated – to see, to experience, to engage, to eat, to share, to move.

I didn’t set out to pair this recipe with the news of Anthony Bourdain’s passing, but it seems fitting. This fried zucchini pasta is by Yotam Ottolenghi, an Israeli-British chef born in Jerusalem. I visited Israel in 2010 with my friend Priya, and I was awed by the bright salt tang of Tel Aviv, the deep, rich history behind the white stone walls of Jerusalem, and the endless markets with baskets piled high with ruby spices, dried rose hips, and fragrant plump bread. We ate the most flavorful falafel I’d ever tasted, we floated in the Dead Sea, and we spoke about religion, faith, and belonging. It seems appropriate that I honor Anthony Bourdain’s passing with these memories. It also seems fitting that a recipe evoking the summery liveliness of the Mediterranean is a good reminder of the joy and inspiration that Anthony Bourdain has brought to so many lives.

The Al-Aqsa Mosque, in Jerusalem

Now – Ottolenghi – his recipes, while looking delicious, are usually far too daunting and intimidating for a weeknight meal. This pasta is different. Yes, you have to fry the zucchini, but it doesn’t actually take all that long (as I’ve already mentioned, I crowd most things whenever I can, and zucchini is no different), and you can perch yourself on a high chair the whole time you do it. After the zucchini is fried, the rest of the meal comes together rather quickly, and then you have on your hands a flavorful, bright summer pasta that should be eaten outdoors, on a patio, with a dry glass of white wine while you marvel at the beauty, sunset, and life all around you.

ServingsFuss FactorTotal TimePrep TimeCook Time
5-631 hour30 minutes30 minutes
Print

Fried Zucchini and Pasta Salad

Source: Smitten Kitchen, originally from Plenty, by Yotam Ottolenghi

Ingredients

  • 5 medium zucchini, cut into 1/4-inch thick slices
  • 2 1/2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
  • 1 1/4 cups frozen edamame or fresh or frozen peas
  • 3 cups basil leaves, coarsely chopped
  • 1/2 cup parsley leaves
  • 1/2 cup olive oil
  • 1 pound penne or other short tubular pasta (I used casarecce)
  • Zest of 1 1/2 lemons
  • 2 1/2 tablespoons capers
  • 10 ounces buffalo or ordinary mozzarella, torn into chunks
  • 2/3 cup canola, vegetable, or sunflower oil, for frying
  • Salt and black pepper

Instructions

  • Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil for the pasta.
  • In a skillet or cast iron pan, heat oil over medium-high heat. Fry zucchini slices in batches for about 3-4 minutes, flipping once, until golden brown on both sides. Transfer to a plate lined with paper towels to drain, and sprinkle salt and black pepper over each batch. Once cool enough to handle, transfer zucchini to your final serving bowl. Once all the zucchini are fried, pour vinegar on top of zucchini and toss gently.
  • In the hot water, cook edamame or frozen peas for 3-4 minutes, or fresh peas for 2 minutes. Fish the edamame or peas out of the boiling water (I do this with a metal sieve), and set aside to dry. Keep boiling water in pot, and cook the pasta until al dente in it. 
  • In a food processor, combine half the basil and all the parsley and olive oil. Season with salt and pepper and process until smooth.
  • Once the pasta is done, drain and add to the bowl with the zucchini. Also add the edamame / peas, basil sauce, lemon zest, capers, and mozzarella. Mix everything together gently, then taste and season with more salt and pepper if necessary. Just before serving, stir in the remaining basil. 

Notes

I, being me, scaled up the recipe roughly 1.5 times to have enough for leftovers, and also to use the entire 1-pound box of pasta I bought. If you want to make four servings, follow the quantities listed on the Smitten Kitchen website; the instructions remain for the most part unchanged.
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Roasted Vegetables /~jmott/trialbyfryer/2018/05/roasted-vegetables/ /~jmott/trialbyfryer/2018/05/roasted-vegetables/#respond Wed, 16 May 2018 17:33:08 +0000 /~jmott/trialbyfryer/?p=232 Read more]]>

Ever since I learned about roasting vegetables maybe 8 years ago (it’s impossible to think that I never roasted a vegetable before then!), I’ve been roasting all the vegetables. I’m obsessed with eating my veggies, and this is such an easy, quick, brainless way to get a side of vegetables in. Besides, what’s not to love about little caramelized vegetable bits coated in olive oil, sea salt, and freshly cracked black pepper? James and I probably roast some vegetables with our dinner 70% of the time. They take absolutely minimal prep, and then you just stick them in the oven, set a timer, and forget about them. Plus roasting has introduced me to completely new vegetables, and reinvented boring old ones – roasted carrots are heaven on earth. All of our roasted vegetables follow a basic process described here.

Some tips that I have learned:

  1. For best results, pat the vegetables dry with paper towels and do not crowd them – make sure air can circulate around each piece. The drier the vegetable, the better it’ll crisp up and form a nice char from the roasting pan. I usually prep the vegetables as the first or second thing I do during cooking, then just let the vegetables air dry a bit while I’m prepping other things. If the vegetables are wet, they’ll steam instead of roast. Similarly, if they’re too crowded, they’ll also steam from the moisture evaporating from neighboring vegetable pieces. Steaming means you’ll end up with softer, mushier vegetables. Crowding the vegetables are often something I am guilty of, because I am lazy and I want to cook a whole bunch of vegetables but wash only one baking sheet. Life is choices.
  2. To turn or not to turn? Turning vegetables about halfway throughout the roasting process ensures that vegetables brown evenly on all sides. I, however, have begun more and more to skip this step as I am lazy (this seems to be a recurring theme…) and often otherwise occupied. So, my vegetables tend to be extra caramelized and brown on one side, but still bright and green or orange on the other. I like this contrast, and don’t think it deters from the texture or taste. If you are after more even browning, give the vegetables a toss or a turn about halfway through the cooking time.
  3. Temperature. I fudge this a lot. Usually I roast everything at 400°F with good results, but if my oven has to do double duty, I usually defer to the temperature of whatever else I’m cooking, as vegetables are less fussy. So I’ve roasted vegetables pretty much anywhere between 350°F and adding more roasting time (vegetables not as crisp, slightly mushier) to 450°F and subtracting roasting time (danger of burning / cooking unevenly). Just keep an eye on the veggies, taste regularly for doneness, and they’ll be okay.
  4. I usually just eyeball the amount of oil, salt, and pepper. You’ll want to drizzle the oil over all of the vegetables after spreading them out on the baking sheet. Salt liberally – I sprinkle salt all over the vegetables, making sure I’ve hit every piece. After you’ve mixed everything together, oil should be coating every vegetable piece in an even layer. More delicate vegetables like asparagus or zucchini require less oil, but hardier vegetables with florets like broccoli or cauliflower have more surface area, and thus require more oil. It should sort of feel like you’re rubbing massage oil onto the vegetables – an even coating is good, but too much is not necessary!
  5. Bored with salt and pepper? Some other seasonings I love: crushed red pepper, cumin, crushed Szechuan peppercorns.
ServingsFuss FactorTotal TimePrep TimeCook Time
However many you want120-35 minutes10 minutes10-25 minutes
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Roasted Vegetables

Ingredients

  • Vegetables (Favorites: brussels sprouts, asparagus, broccoli, cauliflower, carrots, zucchini)
  • Good quality olive oil
  • Good quality sea salt
  • Freshly ground pepper

Instructions

  • Heat oven to 400°F. See note about temperature above.
  • Wash vegetables and trim any tough ends, stems, or stalks away. Cut into bite size pieces. For asparagus, I usually halve them. For brussels sprouts, keep those leaves that fall off when you trim the sprouts! They roast up into the crispiest, most wonderful little chips.
  • Spread vegetables out on a baking sheet. Drizzle olive oil over the vegetables, and sprinkle a generous amount of salt and pepper. Good quality olive oil, salt, and pepper matter here, as they are often the only seasonings I use. Mix with your hands and ensure that all pieces are coated with olive oil and seasonings.
  • Roast for 10-25 minutes. Time will depend on the kind of vegetable and size of the vegetable piece. Here are some recommended times for my favorite vegetables:
    Asparagus: 10-12 minutes
    Zucchini: 15-18 minutes
    Brussels sprouts: 15-20 minutes, depending on size
    Broccoli: 20-25 minutes
    Cauliflower: 20-25 minutes
    Carrots: 20-25 minutes
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