lemon – trial by fryer /~/jmott/trialbyfryer weeknight dinners, and other culinary adventures Thu, 27 Sep 2018 18:37:28 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=5.7 Lemon Pepper Pork Chops /~jmott/trialbyfryer/2018/06/lemon-pepper-porkchops/ /~jmott/trialbyfryer/2018/06/lemon-pepper-porkchops/#respond Wed, 13 Jun 2018 16:57:15 +0000 /~jmott/trialbyfryer/?p=584 Read more]]>

I discovered this spice shop a few weeks ago in Chicago, and I. am. in. LOVE. It’s called The Spice House, and it’s got about everything you could possibly want to flavor any kind of food. It smells amazing inside, like pepper and cinnamon and cumin and garlic and onion, and there are friendly, smiling salespeople milling around filling little plastic baggies full of spices you can buy by the ounce. All of the spices have a tasting bottle, where you sprinkle the contents onto your hand and then lap them up. The store has every single kind of spice you can possibly need, but it also has hundreds of incredibly varied, tantalizing spice blends like Ozark Fried Chicken Seasoning, Back of the Yards Garlic Pepper Butcher’s Rub, Fajita Seasoning, and Dill Dip Mix, for when you just need a shortcut of flavor. The place is amazing. Just writing about it makes my mouth water.

Now I’ve wanted to buy a premium lemon pepper blend for a long time, ever since I last visited my parents in California and my mom made these amazing oven ribs that were marinated simply in some salt, soy sauce, and lemon pepper seasoning. The lemon pepper added a zing, a tartness, a spice that really played well with the pork. And at the Spice House, I fell in love with the Sunny Spain Salt-Free Seasoning. This is a simple blend containing just black pepper, lemon peel, garlic powder, onion powder, and citric acid for extra tang. I prefer salt-free spice blends because I like the flexibility of adjusting salt levels to my own taste and needs. Lemon pepper is such a versatile, easy spice blend that you can’t really add too much of it, but you can definitely add too much salt, so I like keeping these two seasonings separate. Since I’ve gotten this spice blend, I’ve been just sprinkling it on random things – chicken stir fries, roasted vegetables, baked fish – the world can be flavored with lemon pepper!

I really love it on pork chops, however. Pork can be a little boring for me. It’s not as flavorful as beef, but it’s not as versatile as chicken. Most of the pork I eat seems to come in heavily seasoned, fatty sausage form. But pork chops – easy breezy pork chops – are a gold mine in Fuss Factor 1 weeknight cooking! Punched up with lemon pepper, I find them to be juicy, flavorful, and tender.

For pork chop novices, here is an excellent guide to all the different cuts you can buy. Cliffs notes version: try to buy bone-in rib chops or loin chops – these will yield the most flavorful, tenderest results (the bone both adds flavor and also slows down the meat’s cooking, reducing the chance of overcooking). Also try to buy the thickest cuts you can find (they’re sometimes labeled as double-cut pork chops: aim for at least 3/4-inch thick) – these will also be less prone to overcooking and be more tender. You will see from the pictures that I did not follow my own advice – my pork chops are boneless loin chops. It’s just because there was an incredible meat sale going on at my local supermarket – I am a sucker for sales and could not resist 3.36 pounds of meat for $6.72 (fellow Chicagoans, Mariano’s Market has the most outrageous meat sales – am I right??). These cuts were rather lean, and in hindsight, probably would have benefited from a brine for maximum flavor and tenderness.

Anyway, we served these pork chops with some roasted carrots and quinoa (which James did not like). Total time for dinner, including sides: about 40 minutes.

ServingsFuss FactorTotal TimePrep TimeCook Time
However many you want125 minutes5 minutes20 minutes, including resting
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Lemon Pepper Pork chops

Adapted from The Kitchn

Ingredients

  • Pork chops (at least 3/4-inch thick, preferably bone-in)
  • Olive oil
  • Your favorite salt-free lemon pepper seasoning
  • Salt

Instructions

  • Heat the oven to 400°F. On the middle rack of the oven, place a large ovensafe skillet (I used a 12-inch cast-iron pan) to heat as well.
  • Pat the pork chops dry with paper towels. Rub both sides with olive oil, then season liberally with the lemon pepper seasoning and salt. I sprinkle lots of lemon pepper on both sides of the pork chop, covering the entire surface, and also rub some on the sides. It's really hard to have too much lemon pepper if the seasoning blend doesn't contain salt, so feel free to be heavy handed. Salt is what tenderizes and flavors the pork chop, so feel free to be liberal with that too - I use about 1/2 teaspoon of sea salt (or 1/4 teaspoon of table salt) per pork chop. 
  • Carefully remove the hot skillet from the oven (be sure to use oven mitts) and set it over medium-high heat on the stovetop.
  • Place the pork chops in the hot skillet. They should immediately begin to sizzle. Sear until the bottom of the chops are golden-brown, about 3 minutes. It's okay if the chops start to smoke. If too much smoke is coming out, turn the heat down a bit.
  • Flip the pork chops using tongs, and transfer the skillet immediately to the oven (don't forget those oven mitts!).
  • Roast the pork chops until they are cooked through and register 145°F in the thickest part of the meat with a digital thermometer. Cooking time will be 6 to 12 minutes depending on the thickness of the chops and the temperature they were at the start of cooking. Start checking the chops at 6 minutes, and then check every one to two minutes, as needed, until they're ready.
  • Transfer the pork chops to a plate, along with any pan juices in the skillet. Tent loosely with foil and let the chops rest for at least 5 minutes before serving or cutting.
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Lemon Elderflower Cake with Buttercream Frosting /~jmott/trialbyfryer/2018/05/lemon-elderflower-cake-with-buttercream-frosting/ /~jmott/trialbyfryer/2018/05/lemon-elderflower-cake-with-buttercream-frosting/#respond Mon, 21 May 2018 17:05:49 +0000 /~jmott/trialbyfryer/?p=314 Read more]]>

Oh. My. GOD. The royal wedding was this Saturday, where Prince Harry and Meghan Markle wed in St George’s Chapel at Windsor Castle. I’m not embarrassed to admit that I watched about two full hours of the coverage, and even teared up a bit when Meghan and her swoonworthy veil started her walk alone down the aisle. Here’s my favorite fun tidbit – Prince Harry had to get special permission from the Queen to wear his beard while in Army uniform! Anyway, James is a Brit, I absolutely adore Meghan Markle, and so it’s no surprise that we were wrapped up in the glitz and glamour. My friend Kate was so excited too she flew all the way from San Francisco to celebrate with us!

And so, when I learned back in March that Prince Harry and Meghan had chosen a LEMON ELDERFLOWER CAKE for their reception, bucking the tradition of heavy celebration fruitcakes and one made by a native Californian, no less (I’m originally from California), I knew immediately that I had to recreate this! I mean, if we’re eating the same cake, it’s practically like we’re at their wedding, right?!

 

I had a pretty good idea of how I’d go about this. I’ve made Smitten Kitchen’s lemon layer cake before, and it was absolutely delicious and the epitome of spring. And while I love the seven-minute frosting that I made it with that time, Harry and Meghan are having buttercream and by jove, buttercream I will have too! I turned to Style Sweet CA’s Tessa Huff for her reliable and easy Swiss Meringue Buttercream, spiking it with some St. Germain elderflower liquor. I’m also not embarrassed to admit that I took the Friday before the wedding off work to make this cake – these layer cakes take me for-EVER! But after a few fresh flowers plunked on the cake for decoration, I must say that this is one of my best cakes yet. Prince Harry and Meghan are truly inspiring me to live my best life.

Assembly

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Lemon Elderflower Cake with Buttercream Frosting

Sources:
Cake and lemon curd: Smitten Kitchen
Elderflower buttercream: Style Sweet CA
Note: Feel free to omit the elderflower liqueur if you don't like it, and add 1 1/2 teaspoons of pure vanilla extract instead for vanilla buttercream. Or, feel free to try out some other flavoring! 

Ingredients

For the cake:

  • 3 cups all-purpose flour, minus 2 tablespoons
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons baking powder
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons salt
  • 1 cup (2 sticks) butter, at room temperature
  • 2 cups granulated sugar
  • 4 eggs
  • 1 cup milk
  • 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Lemon curd:

  • 8 egg yolks
  • 1 1/2 cups granulated sugar
  • 1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter, cubed
  • 3/4 cup lemon juice
  • Zest of 3 lemons

Elderflower buttercream:

  • 1/2 cup egg whites (from about 4 large eggs)
  • 1 cup granulated sugar
  • 1 1/2 cups (3 sticks) unsalted butter, cubed, at room temperature
  • 1/4 cup elderflower liqueur (such as St. Germain) (optional)

To assemble:

  • 3 tablespoons elderflower liqueur (such as St. Germain) (optional)

Instructions

Make the cake:

  • Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter and flour the sides of 3 8-inch cake pans, or spray with nonstick cooking spray. Place a circle of parchment in the bottom of the cake pans.
  • Mix together the flour, baking powder, and salt.
  • Using an electric mixer, cream butter until fluffy. If your butter is too cold, beat it a bit more here to warm it up. Add sugar and continue to cream well for 6 to 8 minutes, until the mixture is pale yellow, light, and fluffy. Do not rush this step! This is what incorporates air into the mixture and what will cause the resulting cake to be light and airy.
  • Add eggs 1 at a time, beating well after each addition. Alternate adding the flour mixture and the milk into the batter, adding the flour in three additions and the milk in two, starting and ending with the flour. Mix after each addition, but don't overdo it - it's okay to stop and go on to the next addition even if you can still see some streaks of flour or milk. Add vanilla and mix until just combined.
  • Divide batter equally among prepared pans. Level the batter by holding pan 3 or 4-inches above the counter, and dropping flat onto counter. I do this about 5-7 times per pan. This releases air bubbles in the batter and leads to a more level cake. Bake for 23-25 minutes or until a tester or toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean.
  • Let cakes cool for about two minutes in the pan, then turn out onto cooling racks and let cool completely - this will take at least an hour.

Make the lemon curd:

  • Create a double-boiler: Fill a saucepan with a few inches of water and bring to a simmer. Place all the lemon curd ingredients in a metal bowl, and place the bowl on top of the saucepan to create a double boiler. Make sure that the bottom of the metal bowl doesn't touch the water. Cook the mixture, whisking constantly, until it begins to thicken (sort of like the consistency of loose salad dressing) and turns color from a bright yellow to a pale, frothier pastel yellow. You can also check the temperature - it will be done when it reaches 165-170°F. This will take about 10-15 minutes. Remove from heat and allow to cool. Cover and refrigerate until completely cool - it will thicken even more.

Make the elderflower buttercream:

  • In a large bowl, or in the bowl of an electric stand mixer if you're using one, add the egg whites and granulated sugar. Whisk them together briefly by hand until combined.
  • Create a double-boiler again with a saucepan and simmering water. Place the bowl with the egg whites and sugar on top of the saucepan (again, don't let the bowl touch the water). Heat the egg white mixture, stirring, until it reaches 155-160°F. The mixture should be very hot to the touch and the sugar should be completely dissolved.
  • Once the egg white mixture has reached the designated temperature, take it off the heat and beat the mixture with the whisk attachment on high speed for about 8 minutes. You can return the bowl to the stand mixer to do this, or do it with a handheld electric mixer with the whisk attachment. When done, the meringue should hold shiny, medium-stiff peaks and be cooled to room temperature. The outside of the bowl should feel at room temperature. Stop the mixer and swap out the whisk for the paddle attachment.
  • With the mixer on low, begin adding in the butter a couple tablespoons at a time. Use the paddle attachment to mix each addition in. The butter must be room temperature in order to incorporate properly with the meringue.
  • After the butter has been mixed in, add the elderflower liqueur and mix to combine. Turn the mixer up to medium speed and mix the buttercream until silky smooth, light, and creamy. This may take a few minutes.

To assemble:

  • Cut off any domed tops of cakes so that each cake layer is even and flat. Run hands along all sides of the cake to remove excess crumbs. Place one cake layer on your cake stand or pedestal, and brush about 1/3 of the elderflower liqueur onto the top of the cake with a pastry brush. With a pastry bag with a plain round tip, or a plastic bag with a corner cut off, pipe a circle of buttercream around the outer edge of the cake layer. This will add structural integrity, and help to hold the lemon curd in place. Because the lemon curd isn't very substantial, though, the buttercream circle doesn't have to be super thick - maybe about 1/4 inch in height. Spread about 1/3 of the lemon curd on top of the cake inside the buttercream circle.
  • Repeat with the remaining cake layers, finishing with elderflower liqueur and lemon curd on the very top of the cake. Brush any remaining lemon curd on the sides of the cake with a pastry brush. Frost the top and sides of cake with remaining buttercream. To frost the top of the cake, it's easiest to pipe the frosting on with a pastry bag or plastic bag first. I use a round tip to pipe a spiral covering the top of the cake, then use an offset spatula to gently smooth out the frosting and fill in any cracks. This will help you frost the top of the cake without pushing off all of the lemon curd underneath.
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Garlicky Chicken with Lemon Anchovy Sauce /~jmott/trialbyfryer/2018/05/garlicky-chicken-with-lemon-anchovy-sauce/ /~jmott/trialbyfryer/2018/05/garlicky-chicken-with-lemon-anchovy-sauce/#respond Sun, 13 May 2018 15:25:12 +0000 /~jmott/trialbyfryer/?p=41 Read more]]>

Whew, there’s a lot of pressure for a first post! Which is why I’m turning to the tried-and-true, classic, utterly foolproof Melissa Clark for some support. I love the New York Times Cooking section, but Melissa Clark is always dependable, relatable, and makes the most approachable videos. This particular chicken dish is bright, salty, flavorful, and oh so easy. It takes a bit of time with the cooking, but it’s mostly dead time waiting for the chicken to brown / cook, etc., and the food prep is minimal. The anchovies are magical, adding a umami, robust flavor to the dish – do not skip them! They don’t make the resulting dish taste fishy at all. Also, if you happen to have a can of sardines in your cupboard and are wondering whether sardines and anchovies are similar and you can substitute them… they’re not. You can’t.

I doubled the recipe for leftovers and also because I conveniently had 10 anchovy fillets in my tin. The recipe calls for chicken thighs, but Melissa Clark says you can substitute breasts (and subtract 3 minutes off the final cooking time). I also imagine it would be delicious with drumsticks or even whole chicken wings as well. I also coarsely chop the garlic because I like eating roasted garlic pieces with my chicken, but if you don’t particularly care either way, you can just leave them smashed and it’s even less food prep.

When you’re done and the kitchen is fragrant with garlic and lemon, please serve this with crusty bread, buttery noodles, rice, or some other mild carb to soak up all that delicious sauce. You will have a lot of it, and trust me – none of it should be wasted! We ate it with basmati rice and roasted vegetables. You’ll have time to prep and cook some simple sides such as these while the chicken is cooking, and should be able to get a balanced, restaurant-worthy dinner on the table in under an hour. This chicken is definitely a weeknight staple in our household!

ServingsFuss FactorTotal TimePrep TimeCook Time
4-62-3*50 minutes25 minutes**25 minutes
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Garlicky Chicken with Lemon Anchovy Sauce

Adapted from the New York Times

Ingredients

  • 2 ½ pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs
  • 12 garlic cloves, peeled, smashed, and coarsely chopped
  • ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • 10 anchovy fillets
  • 4 tablespoons drained capers, patted dry
  • Crushed red pepper
  • 2 lemons, juiced
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • Fresh chopped parsley, for serving

Instructions

  • Heat oven to 350°F. Season the chicken thighs liberally with salt and pepper and let rest. Mince two of the garlic cloves and set aside. In a large, ovenproof skillet (I used a 12-inch cast iron pan) over medium-high heat, add the oil. When the oil is hot, add the remaining 10 chopped (or smashed) garlic cloves, anchovies, capers, and a couple of dashes of crushed red pepper. Let cook, stirring with a wooden spoon to break up the anchovies, until the garlic browns around the edges and the anchovies dissolve, about 3 to 5 minutes.
  • Add the chicken thighs to the pan and cook until nicely browned on one side, about 7 minutes. Don’t worry - you won't burn the garlic. The chicken will release juices as it hits the hot pan and sort of braise all the aromatics you’ve just fried in the oil. Flip the thighs, place the pan in the oven and cook about another 7-10 minutes, until the chicken is cooked through. You can check doneness with a meat thermometer - the thickest part of the thigh should read 165°F. Don't worry if your chicken still looks a bit pink - thighs can look pinkish, especially near the bone, even when cooked.
  • When the chicken is done, take the skillet out of the oven and transfer the thighs to another plate. Heat the skillet and its juices over medium heat and add the minced garlic and half the lemon juice. The juices should begin to simmer – cook for about 30 seconds, scraping up any browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Return chicken to the pan and cook it in the sauce for about another 30 seconds.
  • Drizzle the remaining lemon juice over the chicken and garnish with a handful of chopped parsley. It makes a beautiful dish served straight from the pan!  

Final Notes:

*Longish cook time, but much of that is dead time

**This is what my timer said, but I have no idea why it was so long. Maybe I was fussing around with my whole extra pound of chicken (see below)! I’ll update if necessary once I’ve made this dish again. Because I will be making it again. And again and again and again!

Eagle eyed readers will ask – why is there so much chicken in your pictures?? I confess – I completely goofed, and accidentally added a whole extra pound of chicken – that is, in addition to the quantity specified after doubling the original recipe. What can I say – somehow, I thought that 3.5 = 2.5??? Anyway, it still came out delicious. The chicken was a bit blander and the juices more watery and so the whole dish wasn’t as rich, but the flavor that was there was still great. So don’t worry – even if you’re as absentminded as I am, this recipe is utterly forgiving.

 

Made this? Have some feedback? Let me know! Leave a comment below, or tag #trialbyfryer on Instagram. Happy cooking!

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