chocolate – trial by fryer /~/jmott/trialbyfryer weeknight dinners, and other culinary adventures Thu, 13 Sep 2018 16:00:13 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=5.7 World Peace Cookies /~jmott/trialbyfryer/2018/09/world-peace-cookies/ /~jmott/trialbyfryer/2018/09/world-peace-cookies/#respond Tue, 11 Sep 2018 15:57:32 +0000 /~jmott/trialbyfryer/?p=1091 Read more]]>

I know I’ve bit a rambly lately, so back to discussions only on FOOD!!! And by food, I mean the most decadent, buttery, crumbly, intensely chocolatey cookies you can imagine. This recipe is also sort of a cheat, as it’s fairly famous and has been around for ages. But hey, things are a classic for a reason! I’ve had this recipe bookmarked for years, and finally got around to making them. I’m happy to report that they fulfilled all my expectations! They were fairly easy to make, although not super quick, time-wise, since the recipe does recommend that you chill the dough for a minimum of 2 hours. I ended up making the cookies over the course of two days, refrigerating the dough overnight. If you have enough foresight to do this, or even to make a batch to freeze for later, getting them in and out of the oven is supremely easy and fast, as the cookies take absolutely no time to prep and bake.

I must also apologize for my lack of pictures. I made these while my mom was visiting, and was too busy chatting instead of shot composing. However, the beauty of a universally lauded cookie is that you can ogle the vastly superior pictures here, here, and here. They are as delicious as they look. They are sort of a cross between a sable, a shortbread, and a chocolate chip cookie. For my part, here are some tips I’ve gathered about making the cookies:

  • In the words of Dorie Greenspan: “This is an unpredictable dough. Sometimes it’s crumbly and sometimes it comes together and cleans the sides of the bowl. Happily, no matter what, the cookies are always great.” My dough personally came out rather moist and sticky, and I had no trouble rolling it into solid logs that held together. From reading Dorie’s blog and the comments, it seems that it’s best to keep mixing the dough until big, moist curds form. Then, continue kneading by hand if necessary to get the dough to moisten evenly and to hold together when pressed. If you don’t manage to roll the dough into a solid log on the first try, continue kneading and try again. The consensus seems to be that as long as you can push the dough together into a solid piece to bake, the cookies come out fine.
  • Another note from Food52 about the dough: “If measuring flour and cocoa by volume, it’s important to measure them lightly, as follows: stir briefly in the container or bag, spoon into the measuring cup until it’s heaped above the rim, then level it with a straight-edged knife or spatula. If you dip the measuring cup into the container, you’ll have more flour and cocoa and a drier, crumblier, more difficult dough.” Personally, I’ve now graduated to using a scale and measuring all ingredients by weight, so maybe this is partly why I ended up with a moist dough.
  • Relatedly, when I cut the cookies, they definitely cracked, and bits broke off. However, I just squished the pieces back together, and everything was fine.
  • You really want to pay close attention to baking times and temperatures here. The lower third of my oven runs hot, and when I baked my first batch, the cookies on the lower rack were just on the edge of burnt. I rescued them just in the nick of time, but I raised both of my oven racks after that, and the second batch of cookies came out with a distinctly crumblier, more delicate consistency. So pay attention to hot spots in your oven and adjust accordingly.
  • I used Endangered Species 72% dark chocolate, on the recommendation of Stella Parks. Use the best quality dark chocolate for extra luscious cookies.
  • The recipe calls for light brown sugar, but I used dark brown sugar because that’s what I had, and it seemed to be okay.

And, that’s it! I brought these to a park BBQ, and they were lauded as “brownie cookies.” Whatever you call them, they taste amazing!

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World Peace Cookies

Source: Everyday Dorie, or Dorie's Cookies (by Dorie Greenspan)
Makes about 36 cookies

Ingredients

  • 1 1/4 cups (170 grams) all-purpose flour
  • 1/3 cup (28 grams) unsweetened cocoa powder (I used Dutch cocoa; you can also use regular)
  • 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1 stick plus 3 tablespoons (11 tablespoons; 5 1/2 ounces; 155 grams) unsalted butter, at room temperature
  • 2/3 cup (134 grams) packed light brown sugar
  • 1/4 cup (50 grams) granulated sugar
  • 1/2 teaspoon fleur de sel or 1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
  • 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
  • 5 ounces (142 grams) bittersweet chocolate, chopped into irregular sized bits

Instructions

  • Sift together the flour, cocoa, and baking soda.
  • In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, or in a large bowl with a hand mixer, beat the butter and both sugars together on medium speed until fluffy, light, and creamy, about 3 minutes. Add the salt and vanilla and beat to combine. Turn off the mixer, add all the dry ingredients and start mixing on the lowest setting to prevent flour from flying everywhere. Turn the mixer up a few notches, and mix until the dough forms big, moist curds. Add the chopped chocolate pieces and mix to incorporate. 
  • Turn the dough out onto a work surface (I turned it out directly onto a sheet of plastic wrap) and gather it together, kneading it if necessary to bring it together. Divide the dough in half. Shape the dough into logs that are about 1 1/2 inches in diameter by 9 inches in length. Wrap the logs in plastic wrap and freeze them for at least 2 hours or refrigerate them for at least 3 hours.
    Note: The dough can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 2 months. If you’ve frozen the dough, you don't need to defrost it before baking; just bake the cookies 1 minute longer.
  • To Bake: Preheat oven to 325°F and place racks in center of oven or away from any known hot spots. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone baking mats.
  • Using a long, sharp knife, slice each log of dough into 1/2-inch-thick rounds. If the rounds crack as you’re cutting them, just squeeze the broken pieces back together. Place the rounds on the baking sheets, leaving about 2 inches between them. If you need to bake in two batches, refrigerate the remaining cookies until you're ready to bake.
  • Bake the cookies for 12 minutes. Don’t open the oven, just let them bake. When time is up, the cookies won’t look done, and will still be soft. Let the cookies cool on the baking sheet for about 1 minute until they've firmed up slightly, then use a spatula to transfer the cookies to a cooling rack. Eat the cookies warm, or at room temperature (the texture is arguably more interesting at room temperature).
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Devil’s Food Cake with Chocolate Swiss Buttercream Frosting /~jmott/trialbyfryer/2018/06/devils-food-cake-with-chocolate-swiss-buttercream-frosting/ /~jmott/trialbyfryer/2018/06/devils-food-cake-with-chocolate-swiss-buttercream-frosting/#respond Fri, 22 Jun 2018 16:00:10 +0000 /~jmott/trialbyfryer/?p=702 Read more]]>

It’s James’s birthday!! Can you believe, that in all the (three) years that we’ve known each other, we’ve never been able to celebrate the actual day of his birthday together? Work and life just get in the way. And so, I’ve never made him a birthday cake! And because we weren’t together this year either, I thought about just chucking in the towel and giving up on the cake for one more year. James was in Germany for a conference, and then in London to see friends and family. I, with a free Sunday on my hands, dithered between getting a manicure and a massage… or slaving away roasting sugar and making a cake.

Obviously I made a cake, and obviously, motivations weren’t completely selfless. I felt a little bad because I saw that his family had already made him a chocolate cake, but I also had my heart set on chocolate. You know those huge, fluffy, colorful sheet cakes from Costco that you ate all the time as a child, because they would be present at every birthday party, sporting event, and piano recital? Yeah, that cake – I loved that cake, and a few days ago, there was some leftover Costco chocolate cake in the office kitchen from a retirement party. I gobbled down a slice (being unable to resist free dessert), and have been craving more ever since.

I used the Devil’s Food Cake recipe from Bravetart, and the result was a cake that was chocolatey, moist, fluffy, and very very easy. It is truly a one-bowl cake that uses ingredients straight from the fridge, and comes together very quickly. The cake itself was the easiest part of this dessert to make! For the frosting, I also used Stella Parks’s new recipe for Chocolate Swiss Buttercream, which led me down the previously mentioned rabbit hole of roasting sugar (read aaaaall about my thoughts on that here). Whether because of the roasted sugar or not, the frosting was definitely the highlight – smooth, creamy, richly chocolatey, and not too sweet. Swiss buttercream is more labor-intensive than American buttercream, but I think it really tastes more complex, with a smoother, silkier, lighter texture. For all its steps, it’s also a resilient beast, and will bounce back from most supposed disasters. Once you get the hang of what you’re doing, it’s fairly straightforward.

Happy Birthday, Jimmy Ted!!!

Final note: I scaled both the cake and the frosting down 2/3 to make a 2-layer cake, because I still had a freezer full of Reese’s peanut butter cups, so that’s why some quantities are a little wonky. For quantities for the 3-layer cake, follow the links back to the original recipes.

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Devil's Food Cake with Chocolate Swiss Buttercream Frosting

Source: Cake from Bravtart, by Stella Parks. Adapted to make a 2-layer 8-inch cake. For a 3-inch cake, see ingredient quantities here.
Frosting from Serious Eats by Stella Parks. Again, adapted to frost 2-layer cake, hence why quantities are a bit wonky.
For more information on roasted sugar, see here.

Ingredients

Devil's Food Cake:

  • 2 sticks (8 ounces) unsalted butter
  • 1 cup (8 ounces) black coffee
  • 2/3 cup (2 ounces) Dutch-process cocoa powder
  • 4 ounces (3/4 cup + 1 tablespoon) finely chopped dark chocolate, about 72%
  • 1 1/3 cup gently packed (10 2/3 ounces) light brown sugar
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 4 large eggs, straight from the fridge
  • 2 large egg yolks (1 ounce)
  • 1 1/3 cup (6 ounces) all-purpose flour
  • 1 teaspoon baking soda

Chocolate Swiss Buttercream Frosting:

  • 1/2 cup (4 ounces) egg whites (from 3-4 large eggs)
  • 1 cup + 2 tablespoons (7 1/3 ounces) roasted sugar or light brown sugar
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
  • 1 1/3 cup (10 2/3 ounces) unsalted butter, softened and cut into roughly tablespoon-sized pieces
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 5 1/2 - 9 ounces (1 - 1 3/4 cups) finely chopped dark chocolate, about 72%

Instructions

For the cake:

  • Place oven rack in lower-middle position and preheat oven to 350°F. Line two 8-inch cake pans with parchment paper and grease with butter or nonstick spray. 
  • Combine butter and coffee in a large (5-quart) stainless steel pot, and set over low heat, stirring occasionally. After the butter has fully melted, remove from heat and whisk in the cocoa and chocolate. Stir until the chocolate has fully melted, then stir in the brown sugar, vanilla, and salt. Add the eggs and the yolks, and stir to combine. Sift in the flour and baking soda. Whisk thoroughly to mix, then divide evenly among the prepared cake pans (there will be about 23 ounces of batter in each pan if you're using a kitchen scale).
  • Bake at 350°F for 25-30 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center of the cakes comes out mostly clean with a few crumbs still attached. Cool in the cake pans for about 15 minutes, then remove the cakes from the pans. Peeling off the parchment, cool on a wire rack until no warmth remains, about 1 hour.

For the frosting:

  • Fill a wide pot with 1-2 inches of water, and heat until gently simmering. Combine egg whites, sugar, salt, and cream of tartar in the bowl of a stand mixer, or a stainless steel bowl if using a hand mixer. Place the bowl over the pot of simmering water. Make sure the bottom of the bowl does not touch the water. If it does, place a thick ring of crumpled tinfoil on the bottom of the pot to act as a "booster seat" to raise the bowl up.
  • Heat egg white mixture over the simmering water, whisking constantly, until mixture reaches 185°F (85°C). This will take about 10 to 12 minutes; if the mixture is heating slowly, turn up the heat. Once ready, remove from heat and transfer to a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment. Whip at high speed for about 10 minutes, until meringue is shiny, stiff, and cool to the touch, around 90°F (32°C).
  • With the mixer switched to low, add butter, 1 or 2 tablespoons at a time. Make sure that the butter is close to room temperature to best incorporate with the meringue. After all the butter has been added, the buttercream should be thick, creamy, and soft but not runny, around 72°F (22°C). Add vanilla extract and mix on low speed until combined.
  • Melt chocolate, either in a microwave or over a water bath (I did it in the microwave, in 20-second increments, stirring after each increment, until it was fluid and completely melted). You can play around with the amount of chocolate you add - the lower end of the suggested quantity range will produce a "milk" chocolate profile, and additional chocolate will produce incrementally deeper chocolate flavor (I used about 7 ounces, or a little less than 1 1/2 cups).
  • Add all of the warm chocolate into the mixer bowl at once, then immediately begin whipping on medium-high speed until fully incorporated. Scrape bowl with a flexible spatula, then mix again for a few minutes until light, creamy, and silky smooth. If desired, adjust to taste with additional salt, vanilla, or melted chocolate.

Assembly:

  • Trim the domed tops from the cakes with a serrated knife (they don't have to be perfectly level, just free from major lumps). Place one layer on a serving plate, cut side up. Cover the top with about 1 cup of frosting. Place the second cake layer on top of the frosting cut side down (this will help to reduce crumbs on the top of the cake). Spread a thin layer of frosting all over the cake to make a smooth foundation and trap any crumbs. Refrigerate for 10-15 minutes to set the crumb coat, then cover the cake with the remaining frosting.

Notes

Swiss meringue buttercream is amazingly resilient: if in doubt, just keep whipping. If the buttercream is too warm, it will appear soft and soupy. To fix, place it in the fridge for 15 minutes, then re-whip. If the buttercream is too cold, it will be firm and dense, and look slightly curdled. To fix, set the bowl over a pan of steaming water briefly, until the the edges just melting. Alternatively, scoop out a small amount of buttercream, melt it in the microwave, then add it back to the main bowl. Re-whip to homogenize. For more troubleshooting tips, see here.
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Homemade Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups /~jmott/trialbyfryer/2018/05/homemade-reeses-peanut-butter-cups/ /~jmott/trialbyfryer/2018/05/homemade-reeses-peanut-butter-cups/#respond Tue, 29 May 2018 19:18:23 +0000 /~jmott/trialbyfryer/?p=375 Read more]]>

I’ve discovered two things this past week: (1) I have been living in a bland, colorless world for not buying Stella Parks’s incredible Bravetart cookbook until now, and (2) relatedly, Stella Parks is a freaking genius. I have only made one recipe from this book, having received it last week, and I am already a die-hard fanatic, ready to preach her gifts to the world and prostrate myself at the feet of her baking and candy-making wizardry. How does she do it?? I have no idea, but if I gain even one-quarter of her instinct for creating delectable combinations of sugar, butter, and chocolate, then I can rest a happy woman.

The item in question that has changed my life forever is the iconic, the unmistakable, the nostalgic Reese’s peanut butter cup. I love chocolate and peanut butter, and I love the Reese’s peanut butter cup. The silky smooth chocolate, slightly waxy, the salty-sweet peanut butter filling that’s a little bit grainy, containing tiny bits of crushed up peanuts, or maybe sugar, or maybe preservatives – I don’t really know.

All this to say – I know what a Reese’s peanut butter cup tastes like. And I’ve made recipes before that profess to recreate an iconic dessert, only to taste distinctly – and unmistakably – not like that dessert. They didn’t taste bad, they just tasted not like the original. Sort of like how you buy those Annie’s organic chocolate sandwich cookies thinking that they’re somehow healthier, but then kind of wish you had just bought the Oreo’s instead (Stella Parks also has a recipe for homemade Oreo’s. I digress). Same same, but different.

NOT THESE REESE’S PEANUT BUTTER CUPS THOUGH. They are the same same, BUT BETTER. Stella Parks writes that Reese’s are fairly easy to recreate, because when you take away all the preservatives, the ingredients are just chocolate, sugar, peanut butter, and peanuts. And trust me – these homemade versions tasted like exactly that – real ingredients, without the preservatives. The peanut butter filling is the same slightly crunchy, slightly gritty version found in the original, but with more caramel, more vanilla, more peanutty goodness that you want to eat it by itself off the spoon (Stella – can I call you Stella? – suggests that if you have leftover filling, you can dollop it on toast or crackers like “peanut butter Nutella.” She means “peanut butter crack.”). The chocolate shell is still silky smooth, but no longer waxy, because you are using excellent quality chocolate that you buy at Whole Foods for $10 a pound which makes your husband give you serious side-eye, but you don’t even care because you’ve just singlehandedly recreated peanut butter chocolate childhood bliss.

Now the bad news – these are a bit of a time suck to make, I’m afraid, and do involve tempering chocolate, which sounds scary but is not all that bad. I highly recommend you read this article, which has a fantastic amount of information on the details of tempering chocolate, and also suggests some alternative methods. You will need a decent digital thermometer if you temper the chocolate the way I’ve described below. However, you also don’t have to temper the chocolate. If you skip the tempering, you’ll just have to store the peanut butter cups in the refrigerator and serve them cold, since the chocolate will remain melted at room temperature. Also, a lot of the active time is spent on recreating that fluted iconic Reese’s cup look. If you’re short on time or don’t care about the cup aspect, there’s an easier alternative described that takes much less time. All this is to say that you have no excuses for not MAKING THESE NOW. If you are a Reese’s lover, you will never go back to the originals again.

I die. Even our cat Dorothy loves these peanut butter cups.

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Homemade Reese's Peanut Butter Cups

Source: Bravetart, by Stella Parks
To make the peanut butter filling, first you will need to make a caramel-vanilla peanut brittle that you will then grind to a powder and mix with smooth peanut butter. You only need half of the peanut brittle for the Reese's cups, so if you want, you can halve all the ingredients for the brittle. However, the brittle is SO DELICIOUS and keeps up to 6 months in the freezer, so I don't think you'll be sorry if you go ahead and make the whole batch. I definitely wasn't!

Ingredients

For caramel-vanilla peanut brittle:

  • 1/3 cup (3 ounces) water
  • 1/2 cup (6 ounces) light corn syrup
  • 1 cup (7 ounces) granulated sugar
  • 4 tablespoons (2 ounces) unsalted butter
  • 1 vanilla bean
  • 1 rounded cup (5 ounces) dry-roasted or honey-roasted peanuts (I used honey-roasted)
  • 3/4 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

For the rest of the Reese's cups:

  • 3/4 cup (7 ounces) creamy peanut butter
  • 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
  • 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 2 pounds milk chocolate (I used Callebaut's 33% milk chocolate, found at Whole Foods)

Instructions

To make the caramel-vanilla peanut brittle:

  • Combine the water, corn syrup, sugar, and butter in a 3-quart stainless steel pot. Split the vanilla bean lengthwise with a paring knife and scrape out the seeds, adding the seeds to the pot. Place the pot over medium-low heat and cook, gently stirring until the syrup is bubbling vigorously around the edges, about 5 minutes. Raise the heat to medium-high, clip on a candy thermometer if you like, and cook, without stirring, until the syrup is golden brown, about 10 minutes (or approximately 340°F). I didn't find it was necessary to use a thermometer - once the syrup starts to brown, it will be ready in a couple of minutes, so keep an eye on it. The edges of the syrup may brown quicker than the middle - if this happens, you can swirl the pot to distribute the sugar. The syrup will be ready when it is the color of smooth peanut butter - put a can next to the stove to compare.
  • While the sugar is cooking, mix together the baking soda and salt and have it ready to go by the stove. Grease an aluminum baking sheet, or put down a piece of parchment paper. 
  • When the syrup is golden brown, turn off the heat, remove the thermometer (if using), and stir in the baking soda and salt with a heat-resistant spatula. Be careful - the syrup will be incredibly hot! Stir in the peanuts, then scrape the mixture onto the prepared baking sheet and spread into a roughly 12-by-8-inch layer. Don't worry if you end up with large clumps of peanuts stuck together - you can break them apart later if you like. Cool to room temperature, about 1 hour.
  • Chop or break the brittle into 2-inch pieces. And, voila! Wasn't that easy? Now you have delicious caramel-vanilla peanut brittle that is an amazing candy in and of itself. Store half of the brittle in an airtight container - it will keep for about a month at room temperature, or up to 6 months in the freezer.

Now getting on to the peanut butter cups:

  • Coarsely chop the remaining half of the peanut brittle. Put the pieces in a food processor and pulse until the pieces break down into a loose powder. Add the peanut butter, vanilla, and salt and grind to a smooth paste, about 2 minutes. It will start off looking like a ball of dough, but keep the processor going until the paste loosens and smooths out into a thick but spreadable consistency. Stella Parks recommends you transfer the filling to a piping bag fitted with a 1/2-inch plain tip, but I didn't have one and just placed the filling in a bowl and dolloped it onto the cups with a spoon. This also worked fine, although maybe piping it would ensure a more even and consistent layer of filling. I give instructions for both methods later.
  • Temper the chocolate. Coarsely chop about 2/3 of the chocolate into 1/4-inch cubes, and place into a stainless steel bowl. Finely chop the rest of the chocolate and set aside. Heat a saucepan containing about an inch of water over medium-low heat until the water is just barely simmering. Place the metal bowl with the chocolate on top of the saucepan to create a double boiler, making sure that the bottom of the bowl doesn't touch the water. Stir the chocolate to melt it, while monitoring the temperature with a digital thermometer - do not let the temperature get above 105°F. If the temperature is rising too rapidly, take the chocolate off the heat for a few seconds and stir to release heat. When the chocolate is completed melted and just shy of 105°F, about 8-10 minutes, take it off the heat and stir in about 1/3 of the finely chopped chocolate. Stir until all the chocolate has melted, and then add in the remainder of the finely chopped chocolate, except for about 1/4 cup - save this 1/4 for emergency use. Stir for 5 minutes, until all the chocolate has melted (keep stirring even if the chocolate melts before the 5 minutes - this is necessary to properly agitate the chocolate). After stirring, the goal is to have the chocolate be at 84-86°F - it is now ready for use! If the chocolate cools too quickly and becomes thick, place the bowl over the hot water bath for 5 seconds, then stir vigorously off heat.
    Notes: To test the chocolate, dip a butter knife into the chocolate and refrigerate for two minutes. If it comes out soft or melts to the touch, it hasn't tempered correctly, and your best bet is to repeat the whole process. If it comes out streaked or swirled but semi-firm or slightly tacky, it needs to be agitated more - stir vigorously for two more minutes, and test again. If it comes out hard, glossy, and snappy, it's tempered and your chocolate is ready for use!
    During use, if the chocolate cools and becomes too thick, carefully rewarm it by setting it over the water bath for a few seconds, then stirring off heat. However, do not let the chocolate exceed 86°F - if it accidentally overheats, immediately add the "emergency" chocolate and stir like mad.
  • Assemble the peanut butter cups. Line muffin pans with fluted cupcake papers. I found it helpful to make the cups in batches of 6 or 12. Drop a tablespoon of chocolate into the cupcake papers. Add the peanut butter filling one of two ways: 1) With the piping bag, hold it vertically, perpendicular to the layer of chocolate, and pipe about 1 tablespoon of filling into the center of the chocolate. 2) Using a spoon, gently drop about 1 tablespoon of filling into the center of the chocolate. In either case, dropping the peanut butter filling should push the chocolate up the sides of the paper. Top each cup with another tablespoon of chocolate, smoothing the tops if necessary with an offset spatula. Lightly tap the pan on the counter a few times to even and smooth out the tops further. Refrigerate until the chocolate is set, about 30 minutes. Repeat with remaining cupcake papers, chocolate, and peanut butter filling.

Notes

The cups will keep in an airtight container for up to 1 week at room temperature, 1 month in the fridge, or 6 months in the freezer.
Alternative: Peanut butter slabs
On a parchment-lined 9-by-13 baking tray, spread half the tempered chocolate in a smooth layer. Refrigerate until firm, about 10 minutes. Spread all of the peanut butter filling on top of the hardened chocolate, then cover with the remaining chocolate, smoothing gently with an offset spatula if desired. Refrigerate until hard, then cut up into bars to serve.
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