I’m back!! Sorry for the extended absence, August was a flurry of vacations, friends, and animal sightings! James and I had our one-year anniversary of marital bliss (bliss sometimes; general tolerance the rest of the time), and celebrated by going back to Boston, where we met, and traipsing with some friends to Cape Cod, where we first vacationed. Then we went hiking, camping, and swimming in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park (side note – did you know that the Smokies is THE TOP MOST visited national park in the U.S.? I was floored – I thought for sure it would be Yellowstone or Yosemite! #westcoastbias). The trips were great. Unfortunately, there was a not insignificant amount of rain in both places, but we made do. The Cape was stunning, as usual, and the Smokies were woody, forested peaks threaded through with rocky streams. Very picturesque, but definitely lacking the grandeur and scale of the West Coast national parks (#westcoastbias). James and I have a halfhearted goal of visiting all of the national parks, though, so that was a big one off the list! We also saw four black bears, which was really cool! All of the sightings were in very touristy locations, however, where we saw the crowds of people with cameras before we saw the bears, so it wasn’t too scary. It did prompt us to buy this amazing book, Bear in the Backseat, which I highly recommend, and which has taught me a wealth of information about bear behavior.

Also, FOOOOOOODDDD. Except when we were camping, James and I have eaten our way through the fried chicken restaurants of Tennessee. One place in particular, the Old Mill Restaurant in Pigeon Forge, TN, was AMAZING – James and I both got the fried chicken dinner, which consisted of six fried chicken legs, a side salad, corn chowder, corn fritters, green beans, mashed potatoes, dinner rolls, and choice of dessert, all for $18.99 each! We ate ourselves silly, then took home leftovers for lunch the next day, which we lugged up to Andrews Bald for a sun-splattered, dozy picnic. We also sampled moonshine in Gatlinburg, TN, which tastes probably about how you’d imagine. There are a lot of different flavors, of which we got to taste 12, ranging from apple pie to strawberry mango margarita to seasonal peach. The tasting made us a bit more tiddly than expected, and we had to park our butts on some rocking chairs to take advantage of the free outdoor bluegrass concert before driving on to dinner! Gatlinburg, located right on the doorstep of the Smokies, is a thing of wonder – think the Las Vegas of Tennessee!

After we got back from the Smokies, we then immediately sauntered off to St. Paul, where my good friend Kate had graciously scheduled her baby shower to be at the same time at the Minnesota State Fair, which she loves. We went to the fair with her, and saw the most beautiful farm animals – baby donkeys, sleek horses, impressive cows, the state’s biggest boar, and tiny little 4-hour old piglets. We also ate a Scotch egg on a stick, the sweetest corn I’d ever tasted, and a bucket of ice cream. All in all, a very successful trip to Minnesota.

Okay, onto the recipe of this week. This recipe is a bit of a cheat, because I think probably 90% of my readers (read, friends) already know about it. However, IF YOU DO NOT, YOU SHOULD. It is an amazingly easy, no frills, set-it-and-forget-it pasta sauce that nevertheless tastes luxurious, rich, velvety, flavorful, and so much better than just the sum of its parts. We made it after coming back from the Smokies, when we were craving homemade (and not fried) food, but with hardly anything in the fridge and little time to go grocery shopping. With just five ingredients (canned tomatoes, onion, butter, pasta, zucchini), plus some olive oil, salt, and pepper, you can have a vegetable-forward, healthy, delicious dinner on the table with very minimal effort.

Marcella Hazan is widely considered to be the Julia Child of Italian cooking. Her cookbook, Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking, is fantastic, with recipes ranging from the foolproof (like this popular recipe) to the elaborate. I’ve made several things from it, and they have always been great. This sauce is not only easy, but also endlessly customizable. Feel free to toss in herbs, vegetables, even a little crumbled sausage. You can also do what my friend Kristin does, and make this sauce to go with some pre-made, fancy fresh pasta or ravioli, thus elevating your weeknight dinner game even more. The only limiting factor is your imagination!

Final Notes – this sauce gets better the more it’s simmered. The recipe tells you to simmer for 45 minutes, which is kind of a pain, but you don’t do anything while simmering, except give it a stir every now and then. So I’ve still classified this recipe as Fuss Factor 1, but just note it won’t be super quick. Also, Marcella tells you to throw the onion away at the end, but I don’t know why you would – it’s delicious, so I normally quarter the onion, then just serve the pieces with the pasta. Top with some Parmesan, and you have a pasta fit to be served in any trattoria off the coast of Italy!

We topped the pasta with freshly grated Parmesan cheese, and served it with a mountain of roasted zucchini, and it was just what we wanted after a week of fried chicken. Total time to dinner, including sides: 50 minutes

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Marcella Hazan's Tomato Sauce

Source: Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking, by Marcella Hazan

Also available on the New York Times

Ingredients

• 1 (28-ounce) can whole peeled tomatoes, no salt or herbs added
• 5 tablespoons butter
• 1 onion, peeled and cut in half or quarters
• Salt
• Freshly ground black pepper and Parmesan cheese (optional)

Instructions

• Combine the tomatoes, their juices, butter and onion in a saucepan. Add a pinch or two of salt.
• Place over medium heat and bring to a simmer. Cook, uncovered, for about 45 minutes. Stir occasionally, mashing any large tomato pieces with a spoon. Taste, and season with more salt if needed.
• Toss the sauce with pasta, discarding the onion before tossing if you wish. Top with freshly ground black pepper and freshly grated Parmesan cheese, if desired. This recipe makes enough sauce for a pound of pasta.

On Friday, June 8, 2018, America was again rocked by the apparent suicide of Anthony Bourdain, following so close on the heels of Kate Spade’s death. It seems inappropriate to let this moment pass without comment, but I must admit, I don’t actually know that much about Anthony Bourdain. I’ve seen a couple of episodes of his show “No Reservations,” but I’ve never read his books and I didn’t follow his new show “Parts Unknown.” But, I did know undoubtedly of him. Friends who were similarly obsessed with good food and travel referenced him constantly, especially when discussing new foods and new restaurants in new places. I always nodded along, telling myself that when I got back home, I’d watch the episode they mentioned, I’d read his original “Kitchen Confidential” book, I’d get to know this man who, for all intents and purposes, seemed to embody the same open-hearted, adventurous, curious attitude I strive for toward food, travel, and life.

And so, it was with regret that I processed the news about his death – regret that I didn’t get to know this man before he passed (as much as you can know someone by reading their books and watching them on television), regret that I’ll no longer be able to follow along on his journey in real time, only looking backward with a retrospective lens. I’m clearly not the only person who feels this way, as sales of his books have skyrocketed on Amazon after his death. This development isn’t necessarily that surprising, but I like to think that Mr. Bourdain would find it a little amusing, a little sad, and a little hopeful – that his untimely death, as heartbreaking as it was, may yet still lead to fuller lives for so many more people, may lead people to discover him, to know him, and maybe finally to do what he has always advocated – to see, to experience, to engage, to eat, to share, to move.

I didn’t set out to pair this recipe with the news of Anthony Bourdain’s passing, but it seems fitting. This fried zucchini pasta is by Yotam Ottolenghi, an Israeli-British chef born in Jerusalem. I visited Israel in 2010 with my friend Priya, and I was awed by the bright salt tang of Tel Aviv, the deep, rich history behind the white stone walls of Jerusalem, and the endless markets with baskets piled high with ruby spices, dried rose hips, and fragrant plump bread. We ate the most flavorful falafel I’d ever tasted, we floated in the Dead Sea, and we spoke about religion, faith, and belonging. It seems appropriate that I honor Anthony Bourdain’s passing with these memories. It also seems fitting that a recipe evoking the summery liveliness of the Mediterranean is a good reminder of the joy and inspiration that Anthony Bourdain has brought to so many lives.

Now – Ottolenghi – his recipes, while looking delicious, are usually far too daunting and intimidating for a weeknight meal. This pasta is different. Yes, you have to fry the zucchini, but it doesn’t actually take all that long (as I’ve already mentioned, I crowd most things whenever I can, and zucchini is no different), and you can perch yourself on a high chair the whole time you do it. After the zucchini is fried, the rest of the meal comes together rather quickly, and then you have on your hands a flavorful, bright summer pasta that should be eaten outdoors, on a patio, with a dry glass of white wine while you marvel at the beauty, sunset, and life all around you.

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Fried Zucchini and Pasta Salad

Source: Smitten Kitchen, originally from Plenty, by Yotam Ottolenghi

Ingredients

• 5 medium zucchini, cut into 1/4-inch thick slices
• 2 1/2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
• 1 1/4 cups frozen edamame or fresh or frozen peas
• 3 cups basil leaves, coarsely chopped
• 1/2 cup parsley leaves
• 1/2 cup olive oil
• 1 pound penne or other short tubular pasta (I used casarecce)
• Zest of 1 1/2 lemons
• 2 1/2 tablespoons capers
• 10 ounces buffalo or ordinary mozzarella, torn into chunks
• 2/3 cup canola, vegetable, or sunflower oil, for frying
• Salt and black pepper

Instructions

• Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil for the pasta.
• In a skillet or cast iron pan, heat oil over medium-high heat. Fry zucchini slices in batches for about 3-4 minutes, flipping once, until golden brown on both sides. Transfer to a plate lined with paper towels to drain, and sprinkle salt and black pepper over each batch. Once cool enough to handle, transfer zucchini to your final serving bowl. Once all the zucchini are fried, pour vinegar on top of zucchini and toss gently.
• In the hot water, cook edamame or frozen peas for 3-4 minutes, or fresh peas for 2 minutes. Fish the edamame or peas out of the boiling water (I do this with a metal sieve), and set aside to dry. Keep boiling water in pot, and cook the pasta until al dente in it. 
• In a food processor, combine half the basil and all the parsley and olive oil. Season with salt and pepper and process until smooth.
• Once the pasta is done, drain and add to the bowl with the zucchini. Also add the edamame / peas, basil sauce, lemon zest, capers, and mozzarella. Mix everything together gently, then taste and season with more salt and pepper if necessary. Just before serving, stir in the remaining basil. 

Notes

I, being me, scaled up the recipe roughly 1.5 times to have enough for leftovers, and also to use the entire 1-pound box of pasta I bought. If you want to make four servings, follow the quantities listed on the Smitten Kitchen website; the instructions remain for the most part unchanged.